Lovage – The Nearly Forgotten Herb
Jackie Johnson BS,ND, Planhigion Herbal Learning Center
The Essential Herbal, Jul/Aug 2016

Lovage, Levisticum
officinale, can be found grown by some, but it is not near as popular as it was
when Charlemagne (742-814 A.D.) had it grown in his famous gardens.
This perennial
Zone 3 to 9 is in the Umbelliferae/Apiaceae family (carrot/parsley) and can get
six to seven feet tall with a spread of nearly three feet. Due to its height,
it makes a wonderful backdrop to a garden. It has large dark green leaves. It can grow in full sun to partial shade and
loves rich soil. They’re heavy feeders, so if you have one with lighter green
leaves you may need to amend the soil with an all-purpose organic fertilizer or
good compost.
Lovage is native
to the Mediterranean Sea are, the mountains of southern Europe and Central
Asia. It first arrived in North America
with the colonists as one of those plants they felt important enough to carry
along with them to the new world.
It’s one of the
first out the ground in the spring – nearly a foot tall when the dandelions are
in bloom. Nature provides and lovage is
loaded with the nutrients we need in the spring – Vitamins C, B-complex and
quercetin.
One of the
attributes that make this plant special and very useful to have around – it
smells and tastes like a strong celery and can be interchanged if you remember
that lovage is stronger, and taste test as you go. You Bloody Mary lovers may want to grow it
for its stem, which is perfect in your Bloody Marys – it’s hollow and adds the
aroma and taste of celery.
If you find a
packet of seeds, plant in early spring, but keeping in mind they only have
about a 50% germination rate. The seeds
must be stratified for a couple of weeks prior to planting and require only
about a quarter of an inch of covering soil.
It only takes about two weeks to come up, so you’ll know fairly quickly
if you have good seed. They take about 90 days from germination to
maturity. Easier to ask a friend who
grows it for a clump in the spring. If
your winter has been particularly cold, it’s a good time to get lovage; they
seem to grow better and faster after a miserably cold winter! Fall clumps can also be transplanted but I
haven’t had much luck with fall plantings.
This is a pretty
versatile plant. All the parts are used
– the leaves, the flowers, the seeds and the roots of two to three year plus old
plants. The younger the leaves the more
mild they are. Keep cutting them back to
prevent flowering – the leaves get a more bitter taste once in bloom.
Aphids like
lovage so keep a watch out. If you’re into companion planting, plant lovage
with potatoes or other root vegetables as it seems to help with their growth.
The flowers come
in our area (Zone 4) from late June to August (depending on how much cutting
back is done). They’re an umbel and
yellow to yellow-green. They attract pollinators
for those planting pollinator gardens this year. Parasitic wasps that eat tent caterpillars like
lovage too – always a good thing.
Harvest the
leaves of lovage in the morning after the dew has dried. Try to dry them quickly to retain their
color; often they turn yellow during a long drying process. Washing the leaves will remove some the
volatile oils but generally they don’t need it.
Leaves can be frozen – blanch first and then put in very cold water for
a couple minutes. I put them on trays in
the freezer and transfer to containers when they’re frozen. Seeds should be harvested when the yellow
flowers turn brown.
Lovage has been
around for a long time. It was found in
most Middle Ages kitchen gardens and was used both a culinary and medicinal
plant. It was also believed that if you
wore lovage, it would keep your true love in total devotion to you! A favorite drink was a cordial made with
lovage, tansy and yarrow.
The Greeks
chewed on the leaves for digestion/gas.
The leaves were
also worn by travelers in their shoes to relieve weary feet.
Herbalist John
Gerard (Herbal 1597) felt it was one of the best remedies of his time.
The Benedictine
monks used it as a medicine.
Even Hildegard
of Bingen used it in her cooking.
It was often
used in hedgerows in Britain.
Early New
Englanders candied the root and chewed on it for bad breath.
The Shakers grew
the plant and sold the seed.
It was a common
remedy of the era for sore throats, rheumatism, as a diuretic, in bath water,
for skin problems, but it was most effective for digestion and gas. Other benefits worth researching include
working on inflammation, supporting the lungs (cousin to osha), possible allergy
relief by inhibiting release of histamines, and for stress control.
As a foot soak, I add the
leaves to thyme, Rosemary, lavender, and mint (equal parts) and add marbles
(with the shooters) to the basin with a quart of as warm a water as you can
stand. (Rubbing your feet on the marbles
stimulates the reflexology points in your feet.)
If you have
psoriasis or acne, you might want to try a salve using the lovage leaves, or
placing the leaves directly on the affected area.
If you harvest
the seed, it can be added to your cooking as well, much like fennel. I’ve even thrown them in bread I was making.
Lovage is one of
the oldest salad greens. Long before
celery was common, lovage was used in salads, stews and soups. I chop the leaves and use them in egg salad,
potato and pasta salads, and in frittatas.
They are stronger than the celery, so experiment starting with a little
and work up.
I like to make a
vinegar with lovage leaves and chive blossoms, and have also included a couple
leaves in my fire cider.
This is one
plant you need to experiment with. There
are some recipes out there, but start using the leaves sparingly at first to any
recipes you would normally include celery.
Following is one
of my favorite spring soups:
Lovage Soup
1oz. butter
2 medium onions, finely chopped
4T lovage leaves, finely chopped
3T all-purpose flour
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup milk or heavy cream
2 or 3 chopped potatoes
salt and white pepper to taste
Melt butter in a saucepan and gently
sauté the onions for 5 minutes or until tender. Add the lovage; whisk in the
flour and cook at medium heat for one minute, stirring constantly. Gradually whisk in the broth, cover and
simmer gently for 15 minutes. Add the milk, salt and pepper, bring to a gentle
simmer. Do not boil the soup or it will curdle.
You can add carrots or other veggies
as you like just increase the liquid amount (either the broth or the milk)
until you reach your desired consistency.
If you’re not feeling well, add garlic.
The only
precautions I’ve found is lovage should not to be used by pregnant ladies
(could cause miscarriages), and it can cause photosensitivity in some folks
(due to the furanocoumarins found mostly in the root). There are also concerns with people with high
blood pressure; lovage could possibly increase sodium levels. On that, don’t use a lot of lovage if you
have kidney problems. This is a diuretic
so don’t eat a lot if you are using diuretics, it could double the effects and
cause real problems. Check with your
health care professional if you have any of these situations prior to use, and
when using in culinary, just use in moderation and common sense.